The cuts of garments this Autmn/Winter is far more crisp, sheer and defined. The sharp shouldered jacket is a great example of well-formed design, such as those produced by fashion house Balmain under the watchful eye of creative director Christophe Decarnin. Pierre Balmain, original founder of the famous fashion house was born in France, and so it made perfect sense that this glitzy collection was shown at the Paris Ritz, showcasing extravogant garments later to be reflected throughout the Great British High Street far more subtley.
Emilio de la Morena, a spanish designer, used a range of well structured body hugging dresses. He astounded the socialite onlookers in London with outrageously daring colours of vermillion red, valencia orange, gold and aramanth deep purple, while flamboyant curvaceous sculptures were supported around the shoulders and neck.
The decoration of such dresses also had structural elements to it. For instance the geometric patterns used by designers such as Holly Fulton resembling robotic internal engineering or the collection of dresses referencing perfume bottles by Mary Katrontzou (one of my favourite designers of the moment) that incorporate symmetric curves to nip their wearers in at the waist.
These collections illustrate how architectural tailoring does not mean women worldwide are set to wear boring box-like outfits, taste and shapeless, as curves and colour dominate this Autumn/Winter trend.